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Risotto Calling Tamara Milstein |
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To write about risotto is to write about myself. I first tasted risotto 11 years ago, in a tiny restaurant in the northern Italian city of Milan. I was lunching alone, on a blustery afternoon with a pile of shopping bags at my feet. The waiter who served me called me "bella" and drew a heart in my cappucino. He arrived with a steaming bowl of golden rice with a flavor so rich and intense, I savored every bite. I couldn't believe I had lived for 25 years without ever tasting anything that close to perfection. | ||
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So, I embarked on a mission to taste as many risotto variations as I could find, and quickly became an addict. I instinctively scanned restaurant menus for new and creative concoctions and ordered risotto wherever I dined - always trying to keep up with the risotto rat race. In the States, I detected a definite "risotto chic" sweeping through better restaurants. Apparently, I was not alone. As I began to research risotto, I thankfully realized that no, I hadn't fallen prey to some trend. Risotto has been around for many years and is actually considered a peasant food - a comforting, nurturing recipe from northern Italy that families have served and passed on through generations. And as with most comfort foods, risotto is easy to make. Of course, you can add ingredients to make it as elaborate or simple as you wish. My risotto quest continued, and I began to share my newfound love with family and friends. I served it at any given occasion, in different guises, and strove for new and exciting variations. |
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My first major breakthrough came after a visit to Chinatown. I bought a cooked Peking duck and came home to decide what to do with my purchase. As I sat at the kitchen table with my fragrant duck, I dreamed up an Asian risotto. I cut up the duck meat and set it aside. I simmered the duck bones in my chicken broth to give it a ducky flavor and I added bok choy (a popular Asian leafy green). One taste and I realized I had created something magical - an elegantly flavored rice dish prepared in no time (well, 20 minutes) that tasted absolutely superb. Our guests asked for the recipe, but I didn't even have a recipe, just a few mental notes. This is where my journey really began.... | |
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Immediately, ideas sprang to mind: If Peking duck could work, then what about chili, coriander, or shiitake mushrooms. How about beans, salsas, and moles? Australian ingredients sounded exciting and Caribbean flavors enticing. I began scribbling notes all the time, rushing to the kitchen to add or change a recipe, or to create another combination. Before long, I had a veritable journal of ideas that reached culinary crossroads. I decided the time had come to share these ideas. I worked feverishly to create a manuscript that could be adapted into a cookbook, one that would be accompanied by stunning photography and easy-to-follow recipes. At last, my new baby of much love and devotion was born. Risotto is welcoming, rewarding, flexible and very, very delicious. The following recipe is both unusual and delicious. I share with you my recipe for risotto of Peking duck and bok choy in the hope that you too will keep the risotto flame alive ... buon appetito! | |||
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Peking Duck Risotto This very elegant and delightful risotto will bring rave reviews from your family and friends. I haven't given the method for making Peking duck because it is a time-consuming task. You will find it much easier to buy a cooked Peking duck from any good Chinese grocer or restaurant. Ingredients: 1 tablespoon olive oil
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Method: Cut the Peking duck into manageable portions (or have the shop keeper do it for you). Remove all the duck meat from the bones and reserve the skin and bones. Slice the meat and set aside. In a saucepan, heat the olive and sesame oils and add the spring onions. Cook gently for two minutes until softened, then add the rice and stir to coat. Add the wine and allow the liquid to absorb while stirring. Begin adding the stock, half a cup at a time, stirring very well after each addition and always allowing each previous addition of stock to be absorbed before adding the next addition. With the second addition of stock, add the bok choy. When half the stock has been added, add the duck meat and stir well. Continue adding stock and allowing it to be absorbed before adding the next addition. With the last addition of stock, add the drained water chestnuts. When all the liquid has been absorbed, remove the pan from the heat. Add all the remaining fresh herbs and stir well. Serve the risotto with the reserved crispy duck skin. Note: To make duck stock, simmer 6 cups of chicken stock with the duck bones and off-cuts, two fresh bay leaves, and some peppercorns. Simmer for 30 minutes or until you have 4 cups of chicken stock remaining. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Regards and good eating, Tamara. | |||
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Tamara Milstein is Australia's expert on risotto. She hosts a Web site devoted to cooking called Tamara's Kitchen.
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