Fillet

   Another
   Kind of
   Barbecue

Dan Schuman

When did portly Americans get the notion that they have the lock on quality barbecue? There's more to a good barbecue experience than sun-ripened potato salad and misshapen lumps of ground beef charred to the core.

Sadly, for a lot of folks in the United States, a "BBQ" is just another excuse to bathe food in mayonnaise and ketchup and pass it off as a feast. If this sounds uncomfortably familiar and you are in San Francisco, I suggest heading over to New Korea House II on Post street (near Buchanan) for a refreshing change: Korean Barbecue.

The first thing you will notice when you enter the New Korea House is a grill built into the middle of every table. Happy diners surround you, cooking up assorted meat products while giant hoods suck up all the smoke and send it away from your face (probably up into the atmosphere somewhere, but hey, this article is about food, not social change). Once you've been seated, order some beer. Koreans, like Americans (and forward thinking people everywhere) drink big, big beers. They don't call them 40's but it's pretty much the same thing. So drink some beer, sip some tea. and get ready to chow.

When you check out the menu, you'll notice a "barbecue" section. That's for us. You'll need at least one order of meat per person, probably more if you're like to eat. I suggest the Bul Go Ki (marinated beef), Kal Bi (short ribs) and, of course, the prawns. If you are a little more adventurous, you can order beef tongue - it tastes good and you get to tell everyone that you ate tongue. For Kosher diners I suggest the marinated pork. Place your order with the waitress, take a slug of beer and get ready because it all happens fast.

Right away somebody will come over to the table and light the grill. Then a waiter will appear with about 20 assorted plates of Kim Chee. Kim Chee are pickled vegetables, tofu and little fishes. Some are spicy and some are atomic, but they are all good, and for the most part healthy.

Resist the temptation to gorge, because quality meat products are on the way. Plate after plate of raw meat and prawns will begin to appear, all swimming in marinade waiting to be cooked and devoured. Start throwing it all on the grill, spread it out flip it rub it down, toss on some of the onions, and eat.

Everything is sliced fairly thin and cooks up quick. Throw it on some rice and scoop it all into your mouth. Chew ... taste that meaty goodness, feel the gristle dig between your teeth, oh yeah! Eat some Kim Chee (imagine: you can actually eat vegetables without mayo or butter). Need condiments? There's soy sauce and vinegar right on the table. Just remember that ketchup has vinegar in it and A1 is brown like soy sauce - you see, this isn't so foreign after all! Keep your eyes on the grill. Watch as the fat sluices down and pools up on the sides. This is a sensual eating experience - enjoy it.

Now, some of you so-called purists might not think of this as "real BBQ." Where's the corn on the cob? Where's the slip-n-slide? Where's the drunken, lecherous uncle? All valid arguments, but sit back for a second and look at the carnage. Look at all the dirty dishes. Notice how grease is spattered everywhere; on the table, on your friends, on your face. Now, ask yourself: aren't you happy?

So, next time you go bragging about your world class burgers and slaw, think about all the Koreans who could rightfully tell you that you may not know what "real BBQ" is.

Dan Schuman is a San Francisco sushi chef.