Fillet

Sushi
Bomb

Dan Schuman

     Godzilla Sushi
     Divisadero and Post
     San Francisco

You know something, I used to be a sushi chef. I bought fish, I cleaned it, I filleted it, I prepared it and you can be damn sure I ate it, so yes, I know a thing or two about sushi. I know what's good and I know what will give you botulism. I've eaten raw fish that you wouldn't touch if it was cooked and candy coated. And I'll tell you this, Godzilla Sushi is good, really good sushi.

Like most good sushi joints, Godzilla has charm (read: overcrowded and understaffed). Expect to wait 15-20 minutes on the weekend, just make sure you get your name on the waiting list (yes, there's a list). I'd suggest going up the block for a beer while you wait, but then you would probably end up wearing your food - but I'll get to that later. Instead, mill about inside, check out the picture of our lizard benefactor on the wall, flick some guy's ear continuously until he gets fed up and leaves... now you can take his seat. When they call your name, ask to sit at the bar - that's where the action takes place. Order yourself a 22 oz. Kirin beer and a sake. Now, let's get started.

Maki sushi is fish, vegetables or seafood rolled up with seaweed and vinegared rice and cut into bite-sized pieces. All of Godzilla's rolls are reasonably priced and offer neophytes a safe entrance into the world of sushi. The spicy tuna roll ($4.00) was tasty, but not spicy enough. The kamikaze roll ($3.50) was good despite the stupid name, and nothing beats a raw salmon roll ($3.50) for simple gourmet pleasure. Vegetarian choices were somewhat limited which is a shame because you don't have to drive a VW bus to like vegetable sushi. Nevertheless, an avocado roll in California is always a safe bet. Our appetite is whetted, so let's move on to something a little more daring.

Nigiri sushi is sliced fish or seafood served on a bed of vinegared rice. Nigiri is a great way to enjoy sushi and it's damn pretty to look at. I suggest the albacore tuna, it melts like butter and it's about as close to Toro (fatty tuna) that most Americans will get. The sea bass and halibut were both excellent mild fishes, and a safe bet for avowed landlubbers. The sweet shrimp has a unique, creamy texture and is the next best thing to eating raw lobster ... decadence! If you are really daring and not too squeamish, I suggest uzura with ikura. For those not in the know, that's a raw quail egg served on a bed of salmon caviar - it's a perfect meld of taste and aesthetics. The average price for nigiri sushi was $3.25 for 2 pieces, which is very fair. OK, now save some room because we are about to enter the next level.

Sashimi is slices of raw fish served with unseasoned white rice on the side. That's it - no seaweed, no vinegar, nothing. While not recommended for beginners, Sashimi is one of the best ways to eat fish. Order the sashimi deluxe platter ($9.75): salmon, tuna and yellowtail share space with more daring selections like octopus and mackerel. And do try the shredded white stuff in the middle, it's daikon radish and it aids digestion. All the fish was fresh and tasty and served with miso soup. I wish I could comment on the soup, but I was a little tipsy and managed to spill the entire bowl in my lap. Well, that's not entirely true, half the bowl ended up in my friend's lap. I can tell you that the soup was hot and it stains cotton quite readily.

All things considered, it was an excellent meal at a very fair price. Mountains of sushi, gallons of cold beer and hot soup on the groin came to less than $25.00 per person, that's pretty good for top quality seafood in a world class city. I do have a few complaints, though. I would have liked to see some more combination platters on the menu, It's tough to order sushi for three when nigiri and sashimi are only sold in twos. Also, I was a little disappointed with the presentation. While our sushi came out fast and fresh it lacked the aesthetic appeal that makes sushi such a unique meal. Oh, and lap guards would have been nice, or maybe a mandatory breathalyzer before all soup orders are served. But this is minor stuff, really. The bottom line is that Godzilla offers up great food fast and does it all for a good price. Service was attentive and unobtrusive (they brought me extra napkins and didn't make fun of me when they saw hot soybean paste burning my leg). And, they have a giant picture of Godzilla painted on the wall, they must know something.

Dan Schuman plays point guard for the Rude Dogs, a San Francisco basketball squad.