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Norm Schriever |
Santa Barbara Grill
280 and DeAnza Blvd. Cupertino, CA
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In the culinary industry one hears clichés such as 'family restaurant' and 'something for everyone' thrown around a little too casually, usually amounting to advertising fodder. So the Santa Barbara Grill's complete lack of pomp and presumption were a welcome surprise and a perfect complement to the laid-back valley town of Cupertino, where it is located.
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I had first heard The Santa Barbara Grill mentioned in conjunction with the San Jose Metro's annual "Readers' Best" poll, in which it was decorated with two awards. Kudos were given as the top vote-getter for "Best New Restaurant" and "Best West Valley Restaurant" in the 12th annual readers poll that spanned eateries from Los Gatos to Cupertino and throughout the West Valley. I felt this was particularly impressive for a restaurant opened only six months ago as the brainchild of thirty-three local investors, all with roots to the community, so I wanted to see what all the buzz was about. Upon walking into the restaurant I was greeted by a circular wooden bar, lined with patrons cheering on the 49'ers, who were playing on one of the half-dozen mounted televisions. I was led by an amiable hostess across the main dining room, a large room with high ceilings and muraled walls, to a table by the window. The window sills were all decorated with pristine glass sculptures, the work of Soquel artist Gary Carlton. The walls are stunning, dynamic colored murals painted by renowned local artist Armando Delgado. |
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I was waited on promptly, choosing a signature Santa Barbara Ale from the Golden Gate, this local brewery's tribute to the restaurant. The two appetizers I ordered, crispy calamari and Dungeness crab cakes, were almost the size of an entree. I was pleased to see that the calamari wasn't overly fried, a common pitfall. The crab was extremely fresh and accompanied by cold, marinated fennel, which was the a nice complement to the warm lemon and red pepper sauces. A classic Caesar salad was next to arrive. The well-blended, slightly sweet dressing coated homemade sourdough croutons and a liberal sprinkling of parmesan cheese. Apparently, locally grown ingredients are par for the coarse at the Santa Barbara Grill. A "Vendor Program" has been established to promote relationships with local growers who supply organic and environmentally-friendly ingredients, fresh fish, and seafood daily. | |
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It was difficult to choose from the formidable and well-thought-out wine list but a 1995 bottle of Ridge "Lytton Springs" Zinfandel was impossible to resist. My first entree was a special for the day, four giant prawns in a creme sauce. The prawns dripped with their own juices mingled with a surprisingly rich white sauce. It came with apple-mashed potatoes which melted in my mouth, bringing me back to an autumn day in New England. But nor for long, because a generous heaping of lightly grilled lemons, zucchini, and carrots reminded me that I was enjoying none other than the best California has to offer. The Executive Chef at Santa Barbara Grill, Patrick W. Clark, has created a unique menu by combining traditional cooking methods with his penchant for American regional cuisine, a combination he attributes to "utilizing classic techniques with fresh local ingredients and a modern style." It was hard not to fill up on the prawns but my temperance was rewarded when the next entree arrived. The Macadamia-crusted Halibut, which is "quickly becoming a local favorite," was served in a steaming coconut broth along side a succulent pineapple chutney and couscous. This local fish was tender and flaky, and the seasoning, which included hints of chopped lemon grass and chili oil, added zest while remaining unobtrusive. The rest of the menu features an eclectic spectrum of dishes from BBQ'd ribs and pizza to herb roasted rotisserie chicken and a grilled salmon club sandwich with applewood smoked bacon and avocado. They just as easily cater to the casual lunch as to a more elegant dinner. Just when I thought I would have to loosen my belt a notch I got a second wind and ordered a caramel custard. This sweet, brown confection melted in my mouth. But for those who just ate a full meal (and all the portions at the Grill are generous) I would suggest the tropical mango sorbet. |
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Most of the entrees on the menu range from $12 to $18, and the appetizers $5 to $8. This is good value considering the quality and freshness of the ingredient and the elegent atmosphere that you eat them in. The Santa Barbara Grill was founded by a conglomerate of good taste and it shows from top to bottom. Everyone that works there, from the General Manager, Steve Weber, to the hostess and wait staff, go out of there way to accommodate all patrons. In the course of an evening I cheered the 49'ers with the happy hour crowd, drank a superb bottle of wine, ate fresh seafood and extraordinary appetizers and salads, put my diet aside for two deserts, and enjoyed the aesthetic beauty of two talented local artists. I even got the chance to chime in for a rendition of "Happy Birthday" for one of the regulars. All in all it was an extremely entertaining evening. The Santa Barbara Grill is refreshingly original without compromising the impeccable quality of the cuisine The Santa Barbara Grill is located at the corner of 280 and DeAnza Blvd. in Cupertino. Reservations are recommended as this "very urban bistro" is often very busy. | |
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