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Pableaux Johnson |
Hudson's on the Bend
Austin, Texas
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Water buffalo. Antelope. Kangaroo... A cursory reading of the menu from Hudson's on the Bend reveals animal names that most of us only see on reruns of "The Wild Kingdom." Javelina. Pheasant. Alligator... Certainly this must be food fit only intrepid explorers like Marlon Perkins and his beleaguered Australian sidekick Burley Jim.
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Nestled in the Texas Hill Country thirty miles west of Austin, Hudson's has maintained a national reputation as one of the state's premier fine dining experiences -- a distinction built on its consistently imaginative use of wild game in a multifaceted fusion cuisine. Taking the exotic game angle beyond mere novelty status, Chef Jay Moore and chef/owner Jeff Blank incorporate widely varied cooking techniques and flavor combinations to bring out the best aspects of their centerpiece ingredients -- everything from simple smoked quail to "Omar's Rattlesnake Cakes," a Texas twist on a Baltimore standard. |
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Their collective specialty lies in their approach to game -- matching boldly flavored meats with equally intense sauces and condiments. Hudson's dinner menu, which currently lists fifteen appetizers and twenty-two entrees, guarantees plentiful options for both conservative and experimental eaters. For less adventurous diners, Blank and Moore also offer selections from more familiar meat groups (beef, pork, fowl and seafood). Since snake and wild boar haven't quite hit the culinary mainstream, Hudson's waitstaff are also known for their near-encyclopedic knowledge of edible zoology and well-tuned descriptive skills. Going a few steps past the usual fallback ("Tastes kinda like chicken") waiters routinely spend a few extra minutes with the uninitiated, depicting exotic meats using understandable reference points. Ostrich, for example, was pitched quite accurately as "almost beeflike in grain with a slighly lighter texture." Once dinner selections have been made, they're also able to perfectly match an appropriate wine from Hudson's well-stocked cellar. The best starter choice for curious palates is the Hill Country Antipasto for two ($16) which includes slices of wild boar, ancho-cured duck breast, pepper-crusted antelope and "squaw candy" salmon (smoked on the premises). The tender boar medallions and peppery antelope slices go well with a dollop of coarse-grained sweet mustard, while the salmon and somewhat lackluster duck springs to life with the addition of a tangy plum/pistachio chutney. House-marinated vegetables -- cumin-heavy baby corn, spiced cornichons, crunchy tomato peppers -- round out the satisfying sampler. | |
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Hudson's more complex appetizers, such as the Jerked Kangaroo Tenderloin with Chipotle Creme ($8.95), demonstrate the chefs' ability to combine varied influences artfully and with a delicate sense of balance. Despite the chipotle's smoky heat and the savory kick of the Caribbean seasonings, the individual components -- from tender kangaroo morsels to the earthy Shitake mushrooms -- maintained their character while complementing the other elements. Inside Hudson's kitchen, the snarling javelina (a wild boar common to South Texas scrubland) becomes a chile-infused explosion of flavor. Medallions of javelina tenderloin ($28) are stuffed with a mixture of roasted pecans, three chiles, and finely diced smoked pork. Substantial slices of the quasi-sausage sit atop a shallow pool of rich porcini sauce -- garlic heavy and just full flavored enough to round out the javelina's smokey overtones. Teamed with an 1995 Benzinger Zinfandel ($30) and mashed potatoes spiked with ancho powder, the dish never fails to wake up even the most jaded palate. But a relatively simple entree -- backstrap of venison stuffed with smoked lobster -- garners high praise for its sophisticated combination of flavors and textural perfection. In his rustic variation on the traditional surf and turf,' Blank takes the most prized meat from any dear hunt and teams it with aromatic smoked lobster tail. The meat itself is relatively unadorned save for a thin drizzle of powerful guava/sour cherry sauce. The combination of savory deer and sweet lobster tail coalesces in perfect unison, while subtle smoke flavors dance around the edges of the mouth. And the bright berry flavors of the sauce hits the sweet-sensitive taste buds and rounds out each forkful. The experience was doubly intensified with the waiter's recommended wine -- a 1995 Calera Pinot Noir ($34) with pronounced berry notes that accentuated the venison's initial impact. The result borders on pleasant side of hallucinatory -- a culinary peyote high with coffee served in the garden. |
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One word of warning: even a single visit to Hudson's will completely change the way you watch wildlife documentaries. Pastoral views of the Serengeti will make you salivate uncontrollably. Slow pans of the Australian outback reveal countless meals on the hoof. And you'll finally understand why the enigmatic Mr. Perkins always carries a toothpick. | |
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